From jhogan@fbody.com  Mon Apr  1 20:07:11 2002
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From: "James Hogan" 
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Cc: "Brett Rockey" , 
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 20:08:20 -0500
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Subject: [ma] some misc 400/gv pictures/notes
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Again, I honestly don't know who might care but here are some pictures
anyhow.

http://jim.fbody.com/th400/thumbs.htm

There are A LOT of electronics that go with the GV and I didn't really want
them to be someplace where they can be seen mostly because it looks ratty.
SO I took to the center console:

http://jim.fbody.com/th400/DSC00022.jpg Used my pliers and break off all of
the little plastic tabs in there. Then I got the dremel and cut/melted them
all as smooth/nice as I could. This gave me some much needed (and ample)
space to mount: GV master control box, GV auto/manual control switch, GV
speedo buffer box, 5 fuse fuse block, and 12v relay.
http://jim.fbody.com/th400/DSC00023.jpg

Those pictures are OUT of the car so be warned when I take pictures of it IN
the car there are 2X more wires in that console. Whats nice is this:
http://jim.fbody.com/th400/DSC00024.jpg  "stock" Then I can just flip open
the lid and toggle the auto/man control at the track/street/whenever SO easy
drive operation, out of sight, looks pretty when someone looks at it. I'll
take pictures of it mounted in the car next time.

The wiring is basically setup - hot wire from the battery to the relay.
relay has a ground, a switched ignition wire coming from the IGN fuse on the
door panel fuse block and a wire out from the relay to the fuse block. On
the fuse block I have 5 of the 5 pins connecter with push on connectors and
a short wire on one side. Then I have a 20 amp fuse for the trans-brake, 5
amp fuse for the GV, 3 amp fuse for the shift light/guages, 3 amp fuse for
the line lock. Coming out of the fuse block the GV has a 3 amp fuse for
their big control box (mounted on the top/lif of the console) and the power
for the buffer box is there also. In the car now is also the wire from the
buffer box to the PCM, the two yellow wires from the speed sensor into the
buffer box and also a phone style connecter (smaller than an RJ-11, not sure
exactly what size GV uses there) that comes from the GV solenoid into the
big control box.

I was able to use and cut/bend the stock cooler lines into place for the 400
and to be honest, they don't look bad and seem to look as if they were
really cut to spec. http://jim.fbody.com/th400/DSC00025.jpg  bad picture I
know, but not that much light under there. VERY tough to get the starter
in/out with the lines there but it is possible and seems to all work well.

On the torque arm side, again no problems with the BMR torque arm setup and
the 400/GV - dark pictures, again sorry, but you get the idea:
http://jim.fbody.com/th400/DSC00026.jpg and
http://jim.fbody.com/th400/DSC00027.jpg  looks like plenty of room for the
torque arm to slide now that Brett fixed the location of the mount for me
(thanks Brett! - the torque arm nut was pushed right up against the mount
after the 12 bolt install last year) and it looks like there is plenty of
room between the slider mount and the GV even if the torque arm was to slide
all of the way forward.

So I guess thats really all for now. I never did pickup a trans shield which
I kinda wish I did "just in case" but if it requires dropping the trans to
get it into place, no way in hell I'm doing that now.

the cyberdyne trans gauge does work. Takes a second or two after the car is
started to get the temp. Temp of the fluid was showing 76 when I started it
up again, didn't do any shifting or anything and just let it idle for a few
minutes - I think it was 96 when I shut it down - fluid level reads full but
I suppose I will have to row through all of the gears at least once to
really check the lines and level?

Things left;
* do the final trim/cut of the center console for the shifter.
* line lock, fan switch and trans-brake buttons need to be mounted somewhere
(have all of the wires for all of them)
*DS should be here by the 11th
*Need to get some brass fittings or something to put the oil temp gauge in
the pan.
*needs 4 new tires - I was thinking maybe getting new rims too, mine are
kind of beat. Any way to really polish up and make some old crummy chrome SS
rims look nice again? Gear oil and brake dust stained with some road salt to
boot :(
*exhaust - "uhh good luck fitting that"
*test drive :)
*drop a few hundred pounds from the car (no I'm getting out! ;-) )

Also, as I posted this afternoon, the trick to starting it was to jumper
pins E and F on the stock shifter harness (6 pin connector) and for the
power hatch to work, jumper pins A and B. SO what I'll do as a permanent fix
(instead of the pin connecting them now) is to run a wire from E to the
switch on the hammer shifter and then a wire from the switch on the hammer
shifter to F and I'll hardwire A and B (I can release the hatch in gear, I'm
a big kid now).

I'm also thinking I can solve the reverse light issue by determining exactly
which jumpers would tell the computer the car is in reverse and run the wire
from those pins to the hammer shifter switch. The hammer has two switches on
it that get turns on when in P/N or the second in R.

Thanks again to everyone who I've bothered unmercifully the last 7 months+
:-)

- Jim "getting there" Hogan
http://jim.fbody.com/ - 98 Navy Blue BATA